Tabanco el Pasaje

Jerez, the world’s sherry wine capital (sherry = Xérès = Jerez), is also home to:
— flamenco
— the «tabanco»
— a stultifyingly high unemployment rate
Let’s set that last one aside… and talk about the tabanco. It’s a traditional Andalusian tavern where you could historically buy wine in bulk, due to the huge sherry production scene in Jerez. Now they’re just bars where people gather for sherry, tapas, and flamenco.
This one is both touristy and popular with locals. It gets very crowded, since it’s the most well-​known place in town to catch an old-​school flamenco show. On live flamenco nights, all the tables close to the tiny stage will be reserved. Standing is a better choice anyway so that you’re free to come and go as you please.
We appeared just before a 10pm show and indulged in lovely chicharron (served room temperature) and a bunch of sherries. They pour it into a glass bottle right from the spigot. The amontillado was my favorite, neither too dry nor sickly sweet for our moods that night. On either ends of the spectrum, you could try the fino or the Pedro Ximenez.
The flamenco was explosive.
They also have payoyo cheese, a rare goats milk cheese produced only in the nearby mountain village of Villaluenga del Rosario. It’s served with a smear of membrillo and totally fantastic.
This place is pricey for tapas, but it has a lot of grunge and charm. Whatever you order comes with a pack of picos (tiny nubs of cracker), which apparently they don’t do anywhere in Spain outside Andalusia. If you have limited time in Jerez and visit any tabanco, better make it this one.

YES! You know a bar is awesome when you visit twice in one day and then go back again a third time the very next day.
While taking a tour of the Lustau winery, our guide mentioned a long list of places we should see on our short trip in Jerez. At the top of his list was el Tabanco el Pasaje. In fact, he recommended we go there because not only do they have their own barrels, one of them contains Boatina. It’s a sherry you can’t find in the US. Sold!
Seeing that we traveled all the way to Southern Spain to actually drink sherry and visit wineries, this sounded like the perfect bar to relax in at the end of the day. Especially because we could try sherries that we simply haven’t ever had at home.
The barman (who was the same each visit) was really kind and helpful. He was always talking to locals but would pause them politely, step away, and take our order. Just $ 1.50 for a pour! We tried Botaina (yum!) we had Amontillados, we had Palo Cortados, we had it all. And each time it was $ 1.50 and each time he stepped away to pour a big tall pour into a little sherry glass straight form a drippy, sticky, gorgeous barrel. And don’t forget the little tapas! With your order of sherry he slides a basket of little mini bread pieces your way. They’re like teeny tiny baguettes the perfect size for a mouse, but crunchy and hard like salad croutons.
The bar also had lots of old photos, maps, and nostalgic items along the walls. There were posters and banners of famous people, of flamenco dancers, bullfighters, and more. It was as ‘Jerez’ as it gets. Truly traditional! No English, no menu, no fuss. In fact, I’m trying to recall if they even had spirits for sale. I think it was only sherry but they have 6 or so barrels in the main bar and even more around the bar. Lots to choose from. And if you don’t like sherry, why on earth are you in Jerez?!
After you get your order you can stand at the bar, grab a table, or wrap around to the other side and sit in a little cubby area with even more stored sherry barrels. Each time we came we tried something new and each time we came we sat somewhere new. I loved the little low tables and the low stools to sit on. It was almost kid-​sized furniture. It was cute, it was comfy and it was super casual.
Since it’s a local pub and most of the patrons were men, I was a little weary of the shared restroom. Turns out it was super clean! Yay for that!
Some nights there’s flamenco performances, other nights they close. We weren’t sure if they have regular business hours or if they shut down when it’s quiet and they want to go home. Either way we loved it and when we come back to Jerez this will be our first and last stop of the trip. Highly recommend that people come here for a local, friendly sherry experience. Oh! And free WIFI!