Express Halal Cart

«Chicken and rice?»
He anticipates my order, calling out as I approach. It is late afternoon, dusk, no lines as the rest of Manhattan’s office-​dwellers have either eaten their fill or are already headed for the subway. I head for my favorite spot, a little green Halal Biryani cart perched on the embankment of William Street, between Liberty and Cedar. One of many, you might be tempted to say, but no – no. Not all halal meat carts are created equal.
I nod in affirmation and he scoops up two ample hunks of grilled chicken breast, splashes some reddish chili oil on top. By this time the outside of the meat is already cooked and seasoned: a delicate collage of autumn brown, tandoori orange, with occasional spotting of coal-​black char. I have not eaten all day and the smell of the meat is amazing to behold.
«Onions?»
«Yes, please — and make it spicy.»
He adds a handful of fresh sliced onions to the meat, minces both in a series of quick blurred strokes, the cube-​shaped pieces sizzling on the grill.
Grabbing a carton he deftly spoons a heaping portion of basmati rice and chopped greens, accompanied by tomatoes and a few slices of fresh cucumber.
He shovels the meat onto the rice, taking extra care to get ALL the scraps. Nothing to be wasted.
«Sauce?»
“Lot of white, including the salad. Also the red, and really douse it with the green.“
The trick is the sauce, of which there are several. White (cucumber, yogurt and/​or mayonnaise based — depending on the recipe. here is one:
); standard BBQ and a spicy green concoction of cilantro, garlic and chiles.
It’s the latter that makes me a regular customer — many halal venders will put a spin on the recipe to make it their own. I’ve encountered one that will add fresh chopped chiles upon request; another an extra helping of chickpeas and sauteed onions; another with pickled Indian peppers.
But not every halal cart has «the green sauce.»
Perhaps routine, or perhaps because he has the time, he sprinkles some additional spices (cumin?) and sautéed dried onions on top with a flourish.
A crowning touch to a culinary masterpiece.
I am moved to pause in aesthetic appreciation and take in the sight and smells before diving in: the vibrant blend of white, red and green splattered atop a canvas grilled meat and onion. Splotches of color reminiscent of a Jackson Pollock.
To charge only $ 5 for this seems like a steal. This lonely food cart surrounded by towering offices and walk-​in restaurants, purveyors of «fine» cuisine, meager portions at double or triple the cost.
Handing over five singles, I enthusiastically proclaim «you’re food is THE BEST». He smiles and nods modestly. Perhaps too modest to realize what wonders he is producing for his customers.
Bless you, little halal biryani cart. They have no idea what they are missing.