La Fagurida

Fabulous restaurant high above the lake but walkable (90 flights of stairs equivalent!) from Tremazzo. The owners were very gracious and friendly.
Lunch was a lovely homemade antipasto plate of beans, salami, speck, fig, grilled peppers and fish. Main dish of roast rabbit had been mentioned in NYT article about Lake Como from 2006. Best rabbit I’ve ever had. Dessert was a wonderful tiramisu and espresso. What a gem!

Après 10 jours dans l’Italie des lacs, nous voici dans le petit resto local et inoubliable que nous cherchons tous… (Non?) Cela fait donc 40 ans que le chef officie dans cet endroit perché dans les hauteurs de tremezzo. Demande absolument une table sur la terrasse, qui offre une superbe vue sur le lac. Au menu, prendre un antipasto à 12 € pour 2,3 ou même 4, ils sont généreux les lombards et ce serait dommage de né pas laisser de place pour le reste. Cet antipasto est composé de charcuterie toute faite maison (saucisson, jambon cru et cuit, bresaola) et de 6 petites portions diverses, toutes vraiment savoureuses. Pour le principal, nous avons choisi le ‘lapin rôti’, un des grands classiques dit-​on et le ‘capreto’ ou agneau grillé. Résultat: un délice… Nous n’en pouvions plus. Encore un mot pour dire que le ‘Rossi de montepulciano’ était vraiment parfait pour son prix. La question qui reste est: on y revient avant de revenir à casa?

This restaurant is fantastic! It is up the hill and away from all of the commotion on the main drag, which is a welcome relief. Family owned and run, it serves great food with a wonderful, charming, and warm ambiance. The rabbit is fantastic and all of their food has the individual touch of the chef. If you play your cards right, you might even be invited to see the wine cellar, which is right out of a movie set — it is so historic and quaint.

if in Milan, you must plan to visit the lakes district too. ideally for a few weeks, in one of 16^th-​19^th century Palladian villas that rings the shore of Lago de Como. or at the very least a day trip. it’s only 90 minutes by car and by train an hour away. picture forested alps, deep blue harbor, bobbing boats, cypress groves, luxe resorts, cobbled villages.
then eat at La Fagurida, a small tratorria in a hamlet lost in the hills above Como. ask for a table under a loggia with an awesome view of the lake and feast on conoglio arrosto (herb-​roasted rabbit), polenta uncia (cooked in cheese, butter, garlic, sage), castagnaccio (chestnut cake) and a bottle of Barbera. a humble country meal more memorable than at a spendy tourist restaurant.