At one time, Sonargaw led a blessed life. It was the only venue of its type in central Sutton, allowing it to do a roaring trade, and not just over weekends at chucking-out time. Inevitably, two large and more modern venues have opened in front and behind it, both just a few feet away. Then two more appeared along neighbouring Birmingham Road, bridging what otherwise remained a gap to the curries at Beeches Walk. So now there’s a clear strip running through the heart of town giving customers much more choice than they had before, all within easy walking distance of each other. Still, even if the business reality has changed, the food and service has not — these are friendly chaps with an easygoing proprietor able to perform his front-of-house role with perfect pitch. You may find the interior a little spartan in design and not the most modern of venues, but what it lacks a little in appearance it makes up for with that all-too-rare of offerings: a licensed bar. That may still be enough to set it apart from brasher contemporarie which possibly lack character and even Sonargaw’s slight twinkle in the eye. Be warned, however, its location can be prone to blink-and-miss-it mix-up.