Il Pirun

Unfortunately, I cannot recommend this restaurant. Upon arriving, a man eating downstairs yelled for someone upstairs and then waved us up the stairs. We went up the stairs and it was very hot up there, no AC and no fans. We waited at the top of the stairs for several minutes and then someone appeared and seated us. We did not feel very welcome. It seemed like all the tourists were sent upstairs in the heat, while the locals were seated downstairs.
The service was horrible, although our server was trying. There was one server upstairs and she had way too many tables. We didn’t get menus for some time and then it was a long time before we could order anything, including water.
We waited a long time for our food. While waiting, the couple at the table were served. The woman received her food and the man was told they were out of his entrée. He ordered something else and was rightfully upset that his entrée did not come until she had finished hers.
Finally, our food arrived. I had testaroli with pesto. It was very oily and did seemed like it was only basil, oil and salt. My husband had some «fresh» fish which was very subpar and did not seem very fresh. The quality of the food did not match the prices.

This was our favorite meal in Italy so far. The ravioli was obviously made in house and was rich, tender, and delicious in a creamy pistachio sauce. The tomatoes tasted like they came out of the garden, sweet and full of actual tomato flavor. The bruschetta had a creamy artichoke spread (you can get yours with bacon). We enjoyed and savored every bite. The music playing was from a cool Italian funky jazz concert and the sound system was full and rich so it felt like we had a live show going on. Our only sadness is that they had no tiramisu. We got all that plus frizzante water for $ 28. So you can eat for a reasonable price if you wanted. We both we stuffed at the end.

My wife and I ducked in here by chance looking to sample some wine and get off of our feet. The bar area was quaint (fancy word for small) and charming (fancy word for interesting and agreeable), and has the allure that gives you the impression that poetry has been written on one of it’s small, candle lit tables by a brilliant mind wielding a quill pen in one hand and a glass of brandy in the other. I imagine this is the kind of place The Most Interesting Man in The World cools his jets in.
Unfortunately, we didn’t order any food. I see from all of the other reviews and pictures that the food seems great and the tiramisu is something special. I’d kill a man for great tiramisu. I’d even kill a man I really like for it.
«I don’t always drink wine, but when I do, I enjoy Il Pirun».

«This is what poetry tastes like…» — me, feasting on the perfect Tiramisu
We found this place through dumb luck so I almost feel guilty sharing this… but the food and service were FANTASTIC and it deserves the business.
This is a small family-​run café in Corniglia that is nestled among a few similar looking restaurants off of the main footpath that winds through town. The first level (street level) is a small bar that could accommodate maybe ten people. Ascend a spiral staircase in the corner of the room to access the main dining area. This floor is a bit more spacious — there are perhaps five or six tables. Ascend a third staircase and you will be in the kitchen… of his house. As far as we could tell his wife and children were cooking… and it tasted like it too.
We started with bread and a marinated artichoke (cold) with balsamic, herbs and olive oil. She had a mixed salad — well made but unmemorable. Then came the gnocchi. It was served just the way I like it — more than al dente, but not gelatinous — bathed in a homemade pesto sauce. The savory dumplings vanished immediately upon being tasted, leaving only a hint of flavor on the palate. It makes you want to keep chasing them to experience the full taste. Her spaghetti in tomato sauce was good too.
Afterwards, we asked for the check. That was almost a huge mistake. She asked me «are you sure.?» and after a slight deliberation, I ordered the Tiramisu. It was simply amazing — the first bite sent me reeling.
«This is what poetry tastes like…»
Is all i could stammer out. It was phenomenal — rich, moist and savory. Just a flawless combination of taste and texture. Its what I’ve been chasing for years, and I finally found it — right off the coast of the Ligurian Sea in someone’s home.
And to think that I almost skipped dessert.

There aren’t many places to have dinner in Corniglia, so luckily Il Pirun has pretty good food. It can get a bit pricey, though, depending on what you get and how much you eat.
My wife and I ordered the frutti di mare — a seafood platter appetizer that was LOADED with really good seafood — anchovies, shrimp, and smoked fish. This is what made our meal worth it.
We also ordered the Tagliolini with pesto and tomato sauce. The pasta was well-​made and I really enjoyed the pesto.
Corniglia is a small town where not everyone speaks English, so be prepared to do a little self-​translating if you encounter one of the waiters who may not speak great English.

Given that this was our very first meal upon arrival in Corniglia, is it really any surprise that we over-​ordered… excessively?
The two dishes we intended to be our mains ended up being our starters (some absurdly massive mixture of green beans, olives, octopus, and capers; and an enormous bowl of pesto pasta). Which left the one dish we’d ordered, thinking it would be an appetizer, a misto di mare, showing up late to the game and finishing us. I mean… just look at that monstrosity:
— now imagine eating a full meal before starting to dig into that thing. Hellloooo, distended bellies!
As far as the restaurant experience goes, you’re unlikely to leave hungry, that’s for damn sure. As per most typical dining establishments I encountered on our journey, the service is… unhurried, let’s call it. Which was fine for us, being on holiday and all. As a country, Italy will teach you to slow down and smell the roses. Or smell your neighbour’s food, at least.
Visiting Cinque Terre just shy of peak season and actually renting a flat in Corniglia meant not having a problem scoring a seat at il Pirun, however I could see this place getting rammed later on into the summer, as there are only ten tables, perhaps.
In addition to offering a cosy dining establishment on the first floor, the ground level serves as lovely enoteca, where we were quick to purchase a bottle of a Sciachetrà to take away. It’s apparently a renowned locally produced wine. Again, I’ve never considered myself much of a wino, but it was quite lovely for sipping on its own, and quite syrupy sweet, not unlike a port.
If you’re bedding in Corniglia, your dining options aren’t that abundant, and this was one of the better restaurants we encountered in Cinque Terre. Definitely take advantage of this local gem — if for no other reason than to sample some of the fine vintage of the land.
And hey, if you’re in for a beer and a belly full of pasta and fish (and come on, what’s the point of coming to Italy if not for pasta and fish), il Pirun will do just fine for that, as well.